November 6, 2001
A pressing matter is the toilet tank, it’s on must-be-fixed-it list, writing about it? Uuuu, I don’t think so. What I’d like to chat about is safety in Armenia based on close experiences of the past summer.
Yerevan is a safe place, even in the middle of the night a person can safely walk in the streets. Though after midnight it’s very dark and astray dogs take over. It’s even safer in the villages.
Pickpockets? Yes there are some and their work is mostly seasonal. Preferred customers are tourists. I heard about two cases of pickpocket-ting: one in Vernisaj and the other in Echmiadzin. As in all capital cities one should be careful of crowded areas.
My personal experience was in Karapagh. Took a group of tourists to Stepanagert, walked around, had lunch, took them to souvenir shopping and at night returned to Shushi for dinner and bed. We were the first group of Shushi’s hotel, a tasteful place built by a group of Armenians investors from LA. At night the group went to sleep and I went to the manager to pay the bill. And noticed that my wallet was missing.
Everything else was in my purse.
My mind made a list of places to check and people to doubt. First I went to my room and double-checked the place; the wallet was not there. I thought of my group, and instinctively decided that they were all honest people. Next came the employees of the hotel. I had left my purse unattended for a few minutes on the chair in the cafeteria. The manager, Alice, is a close friend. I trust her and her judgment. So, I asked her about her employees, she said that they were all trustworthy. That left me with the last suspect…myself. The more I thought about it the more probable I found that I had left my purse in the restaurant after paying the lunch bill.
With Alice handyman, Armen, drove back to Stepanakert. I could not remember the name of the restaurant but remembered the artificial fall and the small pool.
If we had gone to one of the restaurants recommended by Alice, Armen was quite confident that they would return it. Turned out that we had passed those places and with each stop our hope diminished.  After five restaurants we found the place and walked in. As soon as the supervisor saw us, she said ‘I have it with me and have kept it in a safe place’. She took out the wallet from a box and requested to double-check the contents. I pretended to do so, and left her with a gift.
To be frank, most of the time I don’t know the exact amount I am carrying on me. But I had to carry enough to pay hotel and restaurant bills for the group.
I am assuming that the lady makes $40 to $80 per month. My purse meant a bonus yearly income.

November 1, 2001
Today we went to Gevork’s workshop to see khatchkar in making. We’re taking one to Canada for my father’s tomb. It’s 70 cm. high, has the cross in the middle and decorated by pomegranates and the Armenian symbols for eternity.
Got a chair to rest my knee and G’s colleague ran out to his garden and came back with green leaves loaded with fresh bursting pomegranates.  I learnt that they are kept inside to guard against evil eye.
There are so many connotations of pomegranate symbol. According to an old Armenian tradition the new-weds were given a couple pomegranates from well wishers for fertility and prosperity. (You’re supposed to know that the seeds total to 365.)
On a khatchkar pomegranate symbolizes Christ’ blood; and the best one is related to the original sin: What Eve gave to Adam was … a pomegranate.

September 10, 2001
A new museum has opened its doors in Armenia; it’s the Space Museum located in Garni.
Noticed the road sign a couple of times and a few days ago followed it to investigate.

We were nicely surprised by the new structure and the warm reception of the Russian guard. When both sides realized that communication was not possible he hurried out and came back with an Armenian engineer who played the role of tour-guide.

Even today most Armenians are not aware that Space astronomy research was/is conducted in Armenia. In Soviet times it was kept secret.

The Garni Institute created powerful space telescopes, took pictures of light spectrums from the space, and in 1973 compared to the American ones the Armenian telescopes could capture bigger galaxies and more accurate astronomical data on pictures.

The museum is small but authentic. Exhibited objects are the genuine apparatus used in research. There’s scorched Orion, the space capsule, that performed a 10 minute flight and the brand new Dragon that never flew, wall pictures of Russian shuttle in space carrying a small Orion, scientists, and of museum’s opening ceremony in June.

The museum has no entry fee but has a cauldron for donations. It has a website www.gsai.am  I tried to visit it yesterday but access was denied, perhaps it’s under construction.

As it is, the museum is unique and interesting, a respite from monasteries and khatchkars and yet it has a greater potential for making it into an interactive and educating centre especially for teenagers.

Congratulations on a good project.
 

September 7, 2001
Police are checking the stickers on the cars. It’s time for ‘tekhasmotor’. Ordinarily it should be understood as a road safety measure; annual vehicle check up by people representing authorities.

Cars, tramways, buses older than you, that’s one of the first things you notice in Armenia. And then you’ll spot the latest models of Mercedes Benzes.

At ‘tekhasmotor’ a report from the psychologist (confirming driver’s sanity) was requested.
‘What’s your work, “apper”?’
‘I am unemployed.’ 2000 drams settled the sanity issue on the spot for the ‘unemployed’ Niva owner.

No mechanic, no officer comes out to check the car parked outside.
After making legal and illegal payments the owner walks out of the office with the 2002 techmechanic sticker in hand to the safety of his car and Armenian roads.

    August 16, 2001
    We were taking no chances; for a whole year I was waiting for the occurrence of the excursion.
    Last year we had an invitation in our hands (a date but no time mentioned) and reached Sissian's
    post, Groong restaurant, only to find out that the group had already moved.
    Past Saturday we were on time to start the climb on Ukhdasar.
    Before we were Armenians, Ukhdasar was one of our residing places. That was six to eight
    thousand years ago. Typical to our culture, we lived on high mountains, appreciated art and
    engraved on cliffs, and also enjoyed big game hunting and khorovadz.
    There are thousands and thousands of petroglyphs in Armenia, on the mountains of Syunik and
    Geghama.
    Nigol and I with Ashot were in the leading car, a military Wilis. A convoy of 10-11 vehicles followed.
    Depending on the occasion, Ashot Avagian's title changes. Most of the time he is the guardian of
    diocese (Arachnortarani bahag), but when in danger he might transform into a dog or the diocesan.
    Ashot is a painter and an unconventional artist. All true artists are unconventional but some more
    than the others are. This was one of his exhibitions, a whole day event.
    There was no road, no signs, we had to rely on the knowledge of the driver and the Light. Except
    for some small segments it was not dangerous; however it was a torturous climb of ninety minutes.
    For safety reasons, each car had to keep its distance and follow the previous car. Inspite all
    measures a car was lost and joined the pack on Ukhdasar after three hours.
    It was a charming place the way a place is after a volcano has hit it: rocks with ash color surfaces,
    a small lake, colorful flowers, and an army of petroghlyphs in a packet of solitude.
    One petroglyph grabbed the attention of many. There was a human figure, we all agreed that it was
    of a woman, a snake and a tree (of life), according to a Sisiantzi interpretation it was the Eden
    story. If it is, Adam was missing; he is either unimportant or he's the painter.
    During Karapagh war Ashot was in the army involved with the morale and motivation of the troops.
    On top of the mountain Ashot became the shaman, he became one with his painting, immersed the
    painting in the lake and asked Mother (creator) her forgiveness for our sins. Then at Shaki he
    baptized about an eighty of us, gave a badge of eternity to wear and a certificate granting us the
    status of honorary citizenship to Ukhdasar. For most, the night ended at Dik Dik Karer, for few at
    the hot waters.
    His performance is a mixture of solemn and absurd; symbols of his paintings inspired by the
    petroglyphs of Sissian; themes from current and past lives; and he is searching redemption and
    rebirth in new art forms.
    For pictures visit:
    http://www.parev.am/PICTURES/7NoravankJermukSisian/Ukhdasar.html

August 8, 2001
Garen Demirjian complex the August 6th evening was dedicated to 1700 anniversary, to duduk and to Jivan Kasbarian.
I am enjoying the outstanding events dedicated to 1700 anniversary. A couple of weeks ago it was La Scalla, two days ago it was it was a night of Jivan, Michael Brooks and other renowned musicians. Each solo was like a firecracker, lightening the night, very enjoyable mix of traditional and non-traditional music.
Best seat for La Scalla or Jivan night was 5000 dram; best seat for an opera is 1500 dram.
In North America a music lover pays hundreds of dollars for a seasonal package to attend opera, concert, or musical. The same price would have purchased him/her a ticket to Armenia and tickets to similar events.  It’s possible to lure a particular market with this incentive.
But that means organizing and scheduling events at least 6-9 months ahead of time. AIM readers knew that La Scalla was coming to Armenia but didn’t have a specific date; within Armenia the event was publicized and tickets sold two weeks before the performance.
The organizers need to improve on annual scheduling, information dispersal and marketing skill and something has to be done about the heat in the center, two days ago it was like taking a communal sauna bath in the complex.

August 5, 2001
Oshagan, Ampert, Lake Arakadz today we covered them all with French tourists.
A section of the road leading to Ampert is 2/3 blocked by huge boulders. Tatool, the owner of the small caf? at Ampert says it was on May 15th that the rocks covered the road completely. Buses and cars could not pass by and turned back, it was very bad for the business. Informed everyone including Khosrov Harutunian and eventually opened 1/3 by their own means.
Tatool’s grandfather, Aram Manukian, is the caretaker of the church. He was in Egoyan’s movie, Calendar. Though he has not seen the movie. It’s worthwhile asking him about local history. He mumbles but you get the drift. With Tatool and Aram I get the feeling that they are part of Ampert, the heirs and the guardians of the castle & the church.
Unrelated to the topic - today I saw a huge billboard in the city with a picture of a monastery, it was ad for Anelik Bank.  Could have been for another bank or for Aristone or for another product.
Related to tourism - wish them came up with the idea of erecting huge road signs to landmarks, monasteries, cities, and villages and finding and posting sponsor’s name. E.g. “Road to Ampert 7 Km. Anelik Bank wishes you a safe trip.”

August 3, 2001
Someone named Levon called from HSBC.  The bank is no longer providing joint account services. I think it is adjusting itself to the Hayasdanian norm.  Four years ago when we were buying our apartment everyone one surprised that we wanted to co-own it. It is not the Hayasdantzi way.

August 2, 2001
I took half of a dozen kids to Sissian. The kids were mostly grade eight students from Toronto enrolled in summer art camp project. Each day they attended art school for three hours and then went out to visit historic sites around Sissian and to have fun.

Water and fun are inseparable for teenagers. Went to Shaki’s Fall for a picnic. The fall is privatized. The rumor is that the owner paid 70 thousand dollars and even in the first year he made that amount by selling electricity. The drawback for the rest of us is either we won’t be able to see the full force of Shake or we have to pay in dollars. The waterholder has realized the meaning of the idiom ‘time is money’.
Three of the kids climbed all the way to the top, most of them stood under the fall and tested ‘the force’ of Shaki. As for the picnic, all ate barbecued potatoes, few touched barbecued lamb.

Hot waters of Sissian. Mineral hot waters spring from the ground. The locals claim that it has healing powers. The new owner has built a small ‘basein’ (pool) in the middle of nowhere. The drive from Sissian was 30-40 minutes and their first reaction was ‘it’s like a Jacuzzi in someone’s backyard, did we drive all this way for this!’ There are built in seats in the basein to enjoy an alcoholic drink while  bathing. The owner did it’s best to attract us: emptied the basein, swept it with thread make broom while the kids were discussing algae treatment in English. Half an hour later two kids walked into the pool cautiously, two others were thrown in fully dressed, an all-against-all fight started and then no one paid attention to the poor surrounding and the stares.

There’s a ‘phasenda’ in Ashodavan. The place is located on the river and has a good size swimming pool,  and several ponds where Ishkhan, Garmrakhayd and other fish are bred. The road to Ashodavan is atrocious, but the final destination is a nice hidden spot in nature. The place is a hunter’s dream: skins of bear, wild cat, fox decorate the walls and the floor. The local facilitator who had introduced us a couple of months ago arranged a booking and reconfirmed it on Sunday morning. After a long Datev trip when the kids were looking forward to fishing and swimming expedition one of my friends got sick and we decided to drop her off at the villa, the facilitator called the phasenda to caution them that we’d be there in 20 minutes and discovered that we were cancelled. A minister was there at the phasenda .

Yesterday kids went back to Toronto with good memories. They loved Armenia, one of the top places they had fun was the hot water fight at Sissian, one of the foods they hated was the lamb barbecue.

As for what happened with the phasenda at Ashodavan, when it’s the 1701, 1702, 1703  anniversary will the visitors keep coming only for the monasteries, for drops of Shaki’s Falls? Or will diasporans keep coming because they have Armenian origin and don’t care about cancellations and political whims? Do we care? Let’s ask the opinions of the energy minister, the head of electoral committee of Syunik, and the proprietor of Shaki Falls.
 

July 22, 2001
Haven’t visited the blogger for a while. Suddenly life has become too hectic?
Being in tourism business our work is seasonal.  Right now I am with a group of kids from Toronto,
Grade eighters. For all except one it’s there first time in Armenia.
You never know what would impress them.  One young lady wrote to her ‘The washing detergent is called BARF! haha! It says as a logo..."it leaves it white and clean"!
Another thing their not used to is people staring at them. In North America even when you wear the most outrageous clothes people pretend it’s normal. In Armenia there is curiosity and it’s not hidden, shorts, visitors, real blondes and blue eyed people win lots of stares from locals.

June 18, 2001
Yesterday we were at Ditzmairie, one of the liberated villages in Karapagh.
Four years ago a group of Lebanese Armenians started the village.  They had an Armenian and a Lebanese flag, thus Ditzmairie got known as the Lebanese village.
Currently the majority of settlers are from Ardashat. The founders of the village believed that the land is fully liberated when it’s inhabited by its people; believe that the people and not the army will protect it.
The shortest way to Ditzmairie is thru Nakhichevan; we opted for Khntzoresg-Gubatly-Ditzmairie route.
Zangelan-Ditzmaire area has beautiful habitat. It is mountainous covered with forests, grape vines, fig trees, red and white wild mulberry trees and pomegranate bushes with red flowers.
The settlers are cultivating a tiny portion of the land using primitive tools.  If the water irrigation system is fixed Zangelan area has the potential to yield tons of grapes and wheat.
We visited the villagehead who has camped under trees of Sossy, each more than 200 yrs. old. The site is between two rivers, bear, deer, wolf, wild cat, boar, rabbit, pheasant, blue bird, woodpecker, and snakes are found in the woods.
N. and I organize fishing and hunting trips for the adventurer or send them to unexplored parts of Armenia and Karapagh.
During our visit a group of doctors visited the village to vaccinate kids under six.  Zangelan area has its new hospital and a professional, dedicated team of doctors. Most illnesses are caused by water, Ditzmairie’s rivers are clean and drinkable but Zangelan’s well water is not.
Didzmairie trip was similar to camping experience very exciting because it was new, beautiful, adventurous and short. Would I be able to make their move? Start from the very beginning, build our own house, or live in a ‘domic’ (prefab house), forgo city life and culture, go back in time?  There’s electricity in the village but no water and sewer system. It is beautiful and it feels like home, as a lady visitor from Abaran said ‘it’s as if I’ve known this place for 100 years’ when we were washing plates in the river together.  N. said he’ll move only if we had our satellite dish and computer with us. I say, maybe, when we retire…

June 8, 2001
Finally, new bookstores are appearing in Yerevan.
Books are my love and for the last four years I saw bookstores close their doors one after another. The trend was for every bookstore closed another casino appeared in the middle of the city.
In Soviet times books were published in thousands and were very cheap. Every household had a library and ideological books had their major share in it.  During dark years of Yerevan many of those were used as  fuel.
I don’t think there’s one single bookstore left in Yerevan that sells only books. The world economy caught up with us, most stores are offering books and other services. One such place, Artbridge,  opened its doors last week and is bookstore caf?. The book department has Armenian and second hand and new English books. Got a couple of Armenian books about history: Armenia in VI-VIII centuries by DerGhevontian (1996) and Armenian emblems by Rafael Matevossian (1994). Each book is 500 drams (less than a dollar).
Harlequen Romance readers might find it interesting, I saw the same genre published in Armenian.
The biggest bookstores however are the open streets of Yerevan. Vernisage, underground passage on Apovian and other open markets carry old or new books not found in bookstores. Usually all they have on display are scholastic, dictionaries and computer books but if you ‘place a request’ and follow your order  in time you can get your hands on many valuable publications. One of my friends got Raffi, first edition!

June 2, 2001
An argument has started about the infamous officer Hagop, who wanted to send Raffi ‘home’ (see R.’s logs).
Is Hagop personally responsible for the corruption of the system?
Police corruption is gang practice, proceedings shared by superiors. Hagop might not be the brains of the operation, but by perpetuating the crime he carries full responsibility as everyone else in the gang.
The Armenian Parliament had The Issue on its agenda this week.  We were under budget and shady economy is to blame.
How to change the situation?
I believe in changing one person at a time.  Follow Raffi’s example, don’t accept and ‘understand’ police practices.
Some advocate for more radical approaches.
Whatever method we choose the change has to become from within, from us, people living in Armenia.
So if you have to read/ write/ publish/ circulate log entries, please do the negative along with the positive.
Focus of the negative is hurting the country more than helping it.
Let’s not tolerate corruption on any level, but let’s see what’s new, what’s building, and what’s growing. We don’t want to become our own worst enemies.

May 30, 2001
One of the biggest fears of the 21st century is the computer virus.
Yesterday an email message warned me about a dormant virus that would become active on June the 1st. Following instructions found the mentioned exe file and deleted it and then emptied my recycle bin.
Being a conscientious person forwarded the letter to correspondents. In the midst of it got another e-mail: the previous letter was hoax.  The deleted file is part of Microsoft Windows utility.
So… that’s how I spent my evening.  Irritating and annoying people all the way from Armenia to Europe and North America.

May 29, 2001
On May 28 we visited Tokhmakh cemetery.
Aram Manugian, one of the founders of the first Republic and one of my childhood heroes, is buried there.
Armenian history is mostly conceptual in Diaspora, here you can reach and touch it and a cemetery is such a place.
If you’re not disturbed by the thought, it’s worthwhile visiting a cemetery in Armenia.  It reflects attitudes, values and culture.
At Tokhmakh by chance we met an acquaintance.  She and her sister were bringing birthday flowers to their late father.
My sister-in-law invites us to lunch on her late husband’s birthday.
In Diaspora we focus on the anniversaries of death, here the birth takes precedence.
Local Armenians spend fortunes on funerals and graves.  Having a poor life is acceptable but poor death is not. Needy family will make enormous debts.
The most common grave ornament is Khatchkar in Armenia.  Khatchkar is a stone cross, it is carved embroidery, it’s an art form practiced by Armenians for the past 11 centuries.  Though it might be erected for any occasion as a landmark, it’s mostly erected on graves.
Other ornaments include abstract art forms, of beautiful women, of eagles, and statues of the deceased.  This is the least favorite on my list. When the family of a mafios erects a full-length statue would you say ‘God bless his soul’ or ‘Thanks God he’s dead’?  And trust me, you would know it by the figure.
Families spend hours by cleaning, planting, watering, incense burning and setting up a table.  Passers by are offered bread, meal, juice, and arak (vodka).
The proper thing to do is to accept the offering say ‘voghormi’ (God bless his soul) and drink it.
Another glass will be poured on the grave.
This is the living and the dead from Armenia.

May 27, 2001
One of the most fulfilling moments of life is when you bring a smile to an orphan’s face.
There’s a ‘mankadun’, an orphanage, for 2 to 7 years old in Zeitun, close to where I live.
Dzovig and I visited them yesterday afternoon. Kids and adults are always happy to see Dzovig, they know she’ll be bringing goodies.  We had navy canvas shoes for the older kids and red sandals for the youngest.
There are 70 kids in five groups and each has two group leaders.
I noticed new faces.  Haig, one and a half year old, would come very close when you called ‘ari ari’, and present his back so that you carry him to your lap. Nanor, his group leader, wears stylish clothes (she studied fashion design) and encourages them to dance with her.  She got enthused by the red sandals.  Even before trying I could see that the red was ? the size of what Haig had on his feet. Off the old shoe went, and then a very thick sock followed it, a second sock appeared.  Haig’s foot size shrank by half. She tried the sandals and they were probably a size or two large on his feet. “This is great’, Nanor did not want to part with them, and gave hearty kisses to Haig.  Haig doesn’t speak yet, he looked at his feet applauded and started chuckling.
The kids are well disciplined, won’t make any vocal demands. There’s shy Sareengule (=flower of the mountain) with very delicate features, Sirush with sexy Barbie doll face, Rusanna with the lazy eye, Nareg with russian-blond features, and plain-faced Mariam always well disposed and giggling.  They were circling us. Navy canvass shoes were too large for them.
Most of the kids have at least one relative: an uncle, grandparent, single parent, and a few have both parents alive. The role of mankadun is changing from being an orphanage to boarding school for the impoverished. Then there’s the horror story, the kids who were left at the cemetery.
Yesterday morning we went Hrazdan to get good deals, the first store we entered the sales-guy had a good chat with us and sent us to the wholesale section for better deals. He was very curious: “Providing for the orphans is essential, but are they taking good care of the kids?  Are they affectionate? What about character education?”
Zeitun mankadun is a bright place with yellow curtains and bedcovers, books and toys in each room, gardens outside the building. Sirush had a big whole in her tights and some shoes had only half soles. From what we have seen, they are well fed and ARS feeds all orphanages once a week.
‘Dzovig jan when you see kids are not wearing the new sandals demand that they always wear them’, one of the group leaders advises us. The messenger is brave.
We need to buy shoes for the rest. The money is there; Armenian-French tourists donated it last month.
An orphan’s smile is great compensation; an orphan’s chuckle inspires faith and trust that things could be changed.

May 25, 2001
Ladies are holding beautiful bouquets again.
Though exams are scheduled for next week and the week after, today the bells rang for the last time.
There’s a festive mood. Young man-graduates are wearing suits with little bells pinned on their lapels, woman-graduates have bridesmaid like dresses and taking group pictures on Apovian.
Tonight they will party. ‘Last Bell’ is the end of High school, Tomorrow they will join mainstream of life.

May 24, 2001
There's a meeting in Armenia and when one of the presidents is expected the main roads are barricaded and a policeman is erected on every 10 meters. Not knowing the custom, we went to Argavant, the area between Yerevan and Zvartnotz airport.
Ardavant is landmarked with dark gigantic furniture laid open in front of stores. Yesterday the merchandise was tucked inside; owners and employees had plenty of time to socialize with each other and with chain smoking police. From time to time driving police using loud speakers were announcing that parking was not allowed on the main road. The mood was one of forced holiday.
I just wonder, how many policemen do we have? Other than tax collection and ornamental function do they have other duties?

May 21, 2001
Since last summer the interior of Echmiadzin has been renovated, repainted or revarnished.
Yesterday we took Viken to Echmiadzin. Viken is Nigol’s friend from Toronto.  More than seeing places he wanted to stay in Yerevan, drink Kotayk and watch Yerevantzis: the chic aghchigner, police collecting tax from drivers, the kids playing in streets.  But  a couple of times we dragged him out.
Arrived Echmiadzin and the first person we met was Abo, Albert of Echmiadzin, he is an amazing artist, a varbed in abstract painting. An architect, Samuel, was with him.
Abo was watching the congregation. Together we watched the constant flow, locals leaving the church by walking backwards, and visitors turning around and walking out.
Many visitors, Hi and odar, have been disappointed in Echmiadzin. We have heard so much about it that we expect to find a huge cathedral and we do not.  It has its charms though. One of them is the main entrance, the detailed work, columns with animal figures on it. The other is the murals on the interior walls and domes, so colorful and so unique for an Armenian Church.
Asked Samuel about the animals, and he explained them by the influence of Iranian architecture, one of the shahs wanted to demolish Echmiadzin and the monks engraved his figure on the cathedral by night and convinced him otherwise.  Suddenly the busy, colorful, wall murals make sense.
I try to understand Echmiadzin, The Holy Sea of all Armenians.  I’ve descended to the heathen altar located under the Christian altar. It is said that the entry to the fire temple was well hidden, covered and closed, access denied by the power of Sourp Grigor Lusavorich’s seal. Throughout history we’ve learnt that the heathen churches were destroyed, but the twentieth century uncovered the fire altars under the Christian churches.  There’s another one under Sissian’s Sourp Grigor church, discovered and reburied three or four decades ago.  Why would Grigor bury the fire temples and not destroy them?  It is like Vartavar, Water worship ritual and celebration of St Mary coming together.  It is like engravings of the Armenian khatchkars, the sun (heathen faith) and the Cross above it (symbolizing victory of Christianity).
Perhaps it is the understanding that different elements, layers of history, engravings come together to make one faith, one culture. Always changing always the same. Ours.

May 16, 2001
Rosa is my neighbor.
Today she brought  me incense, showed how to burn it.  I don’t know if it will do anything for my father’s soul, but I guess it will have calming effect on me. Per Rosa, timing is very important,  have to burn it after 5 p.m. and on Saturdays.
I am new at this neighbor-neighbor relationship and very cautious.  She’s OK though, calls me before dropping in, doesn’t overdo visits.
Rosa’s origin is Karapagh, from a neighboring  village where Marshal Paghramian was born. Once we started talking about Robert Kocharian and I said he’s doing OK, only if he could create more jobs.  Obviously the neighbours are not happy with him, (he’s Karapaghtzi) and Rosa defends him, says Robert is so modest.  Last May we were in  Abaran for Tro’s reburial ceremony, all the other hot shots came with fanfare, bodyguards holding umbrellas for them, and Robert  came carrying his own umbrella.  Nigol took a picture and it was precious. You have to give the devil his due.
Rosa has communist background, was the secretary of the region.  ‘Did you go to church before’ I ask her.  She did, especially to Echmiadzin but not very often.  ‘Now my grandkids are learning religion at school’.
She has come to study economics from Karapagh with her fiance and stayed here.  He wanted to raise his kids as Armenians.  First time she was in Yerevan and saw Armenian written in public places she was so happy. Her two sons have left the country one is in US the other in Moscow, married daughter is here.  As a young widow she has raised three kids and given them higher education.  She never asks but I know, she hopes that one day they will make good money and send her enough for remond.  She hopes that at least one of them will return to live with her.  Meanwhile she’s living in this three room apartment all by herself  with memories of four decades surrounding her.

May 15, 2001
On every road in Yerevan there’s a ‘media kiosk’ that sells newspapers, lotteries, crossword puzzles and magazines.
Lottery and crossword puzzles are sold like ‘hot bread’. There are six to eighth different lottery programs and from what I’ve seen from surfing TV they’ve become one of favorite family pastimes.  People watch it even when don’t have tickets.  Each program lasts around an hour: winners tell the story of their lives (how they got the ticket, the way they discovered they were winners, where they live, what they plan to do); then each program claims to be donating a portion of winnings to a good cause; there’s one that gives to schools and on every session there’s a principal reporting about the expenditure, what was renovated with all $100 or $150 USD.
Solving crossword puzzles is another favorite pastime in Armenia.  Construction and other workers take a break for lunch and instead of having Kit Kat they have a crossword puzzle to solve. It happened with carpenters when they were working in our apartment. Sales people while waiting for customers try to solve these puzzles and you hear loud conversation, vendors from different booths trying to solve a puzzle collectively.
Yesterday all I wanted to buy was AIM Magazine, April or May issue.  I went to the closest media kiosk  and got scorned from the lady because I was not doing business with her.  She only had March issue and I already had that from somewhere else.
She made me feel guilty (how is she going to survive if I do not buy from her?) made a promise and came home.
Where else would you scorn a potential customer? Only in Armenia

May 10, 2001
Today the country remembered The V-day and celebrated liberation of Shushi.
Every Armenian city and village has a monument dedicated to the local martyrs. I don’t like the artwork,  it’s grotesque, but bow to their memory.  Armenia sent half a million of her sons to the II WW and only half of them returned home.  What was the population at the time?

May 7, 2001
Exhaustion is circulating thru my veins like lava.
Today was my father’s funeral in Montreal.
Yesterday I went to Sourp Sarkis to meditate and communicate with Him.
I hoped that my grandma would be There when he first enters the other world.
Prayed that he’d join the Light and become a particle of it. “Hayrig Asdvadz Hokit Lusavore.”
The choir was singing a hymn about Resurrection; I felt comforted and left the church.
My mind has accepted the loss, but the pain is still there.
My dad, Sarkis, was a decent and logical man, good father and a great Hi.
Cancer is a dilapidating disease. Last year of his life, illness and medication played succor with him. He suffered, became physically dependent, at times illusional and illogical. And I have problems with it.
I mean God, Are You God of Gilgamesh, God of Israel, God of Moslems or God of Christians?
Megha, megha, megha.  Forgive me God cause I have sinned.  I am in pain and taking it on You.
I am home but my family is continents away. At times like this families need to be together.  My father did not want to get buried in that Cold Country. Help us God, help us to be strong, help us build a stronger Home, guide your sons back Home and we promise to build the biggest church on Mount Ararad for your Glory, Eternity and Truth.
Amen.

May 4, 2001
Have been having trouble with getting internet connection this week.
Two days ago another Hi moved to Armenia.  He’s name is Haig and he is over 70.
Lived in many countries between  Iran and Canada.
I was moved by his courage.  He came with only two suitcases.
Last year another golden age person moved from Canada. He adopted his nephew and his family all eighth of them and the whole tribe is living under one roof.
When Haig got the keys of his apartment he was surprised by the key chain.  His late wife had  their apartment keys on a similar  chain.

Yesterday I discovered Nareg bookshop and today a kiosk that sells English and French magazines and papers, it’s located across Writers’ home.
Yesterday wanted to see an eye specialist and today I had an appointment.  She’s  a lecturer at the University and spent 45 minutes with me. Paid $20.00 USD.

April 29, 2001
I was with some Swedish tourists yesterday.  One of them is a lady lawyer and belongs to an association called lawyers without frontiers.  This is a new association and last month they’ve sent two reps to Turkey to sit on a court hearing.  The case was against a Turk who had written some pro Kurdish articles.  He refused to hide and went to Turkey for trial.  Last minute, the Turks called the trial off.  Was the presence of the foreigners the reason?  Or what?
The lady met two Armenian lawyers and had a friendly chat.  Some irrelevant/relevant facts:
There are 3000 lawyers in Sweden, a county with 8 million population and 500 in Armenia, with approx. two million population.
In Sweden, 10 percent of them is female, in Armenia close to 30 percent.
The legal structure of both countries is quite similar.  (For details go and see a lawyer or two.)
In Sweden they pay exorbitant membership fees to Lawyers’ association, in return, (among other things) get a monthly magazine, get courses (but have to pay for it), and very essential for them, get insurance coverage.
In Armenia, lawyers (among other things) get to use the building of the association for an office if they need to (can’t afford to have their own office), get free lectures, no insurance for the lawyers yet.  X-Soviet countries still discussing the subject matter.
Future job opportunities in Armenia: establishing private law firms and insurance coverage for lawyers.

April 24, 2001
What a day, I walked for three hours.  All the way from Yum Yum donuts, Paregamootyun Square, to Dzidzernagapert and down.  With a group of Armenian tourists we went to Dzidzernagapert to pay our respects. Then I took the bus – free transportation for the day.
And Armenians in Armenia know how to revere the death.  This is a poor country but people  take flowers, tons of flowers, to the graves of their loved ones, and to Dzidzernagapert.
Think of thousands of Armenians from Artzakh, from Hayasdan, from Spurk, think of live Armenian classical music,  think of Armenian flag and army,  think of Armenian sun, think of a  harmonious walk toward one goal.  That’s Parev Yergir, that’s April 24 in Armenia.